Lava Lands

If you’ve ever wondered what a snowball’s chance in hell looks like, I guess this is it. Lava Lands Trail of The Molten Land near Bend Oregon. This impressive trail is built atop a barren landscape of dark volcanic rock, the Lava Butte Lava Flow in Newberry National Volcanic Monument, which is part of Deschutes National Forest. Panels along the trail provide information about how the lava flow began at Lava Butte, a cinder cone above the trail. An overlook at trail’s end offers excellent westward views of the Cascade Mountains.

Trail of the Molten Land is a 1.1-mile-long partial loop with 135 feet of elevation change. Leaving from the back of Lava Lands Visitor Center, to learn about the area’s plants, put the nearby Trail of the Whispering Pines on your path for a 1.6-mile outing. Trail of the Molten Land has a loop in the middle with two non-loop sections at both ends. The junctions are obvious. All you have to do is stick with the paved trail and there should be no way to get off course. Begin up Trail of the Molten Land through the last forested area at the edge of the lava flow. You will quickly reach one of the many informative panels describing how this landscape was formed.

An interesting fact is that in 1963 NASA scientists became interested in using lava fields at Newberry to prepare for the United States' first Moon landing. NASA used the area in October 1964 and July 1966 to geologically train the Apollo Astronauts in recognizing volcanic features, such as cinder and pumice cones, lava flows, ash and obsidian flows, and a lava tube. Astronauts who would use this training on the Moon included Apollo 11's Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin, Apollo 12's Alan Bean, Apollo 14's Edgar Mitchell, Apollo 15's James Irwin, and Apollo 16's Charlie Duke. Notable geologist instructors included Aaron Waters.

The Visitor Center is a great place to learn more about the violent history of the area with the help of U.S. Forest Service Rangers. Inside there’s a book store, 3D topographical map to help orient you to the area as well as daily films and exhibits on the geological history of the area. (It’s closed during the winter, but you can still explore Lava Lands. Just hang a left at the gate and park in the adjacent parking lot.)

The trail of Molten Land is paved and very family friendly. There are also benches along the trail if you want to stop and take in the scenery. Not far down the road is Lava River Cave and this is a popular cave hike, and I didn't go because reservations were required so that tells me too many people.

The amazing scene is framed by Lava Butte, which stands approximately 500 feet behind the center. The cinder cone is one of 400 that is around the Newberry and has a lava flow that extends 5-miles to the north and west.

For a short hike, you can take transportation to the top of Lava Butte, check out the lookout tower and circle Lava Butte Trail for a 0.35-mile outing with 110 feet of elevation change. You may also hike up Lava Butte from Lava Lands Visitor Center for a more fulfilling 3.35 to 3.85-mile round trip hike with 520 feet of elevation change. I did the hike because I was here at six am and the shuttle starts at ten am. It was nice getting here so early because I had all of the trails to myself.

All around the lava flow are biking and hiking trails, and there is even a road that goes to the top of Lava Butte, where visitors get amazing views of the Cascades to the west and the main edifice of the Newberry Volcano to the southeast. There is also a working fire look-out station at the top of the butte. It’s a great way to get your bearings before you explore the National Monument.

Also starting at the center are two self guided interpretive trails that can be explored at your own pace. The Trail of Molten Land meanders over the 7000 year-old lava flow from the Lava Butte. The Trail of the Whispering Pines wanders through a young ponderosa pine forest.